Image: Caprese-ish.
Last Updated: May 2024
Overview:
The folks from Al Volo carved out a place doing really good casual pasta. With San Matteo they continue to build out from a neighborhood audience, but what they are putting out is a notch up from Al Volo.
Pastas remain at the heart of the menu with about a dozen choices of hearty options where cheese and sauces are ample. We had the gnocchi with a sea of four cheese sauce and agnolotti stuffed with ricotta, which may not have been wise but was gleefully indulgent. The antipasti are also substantial, bordering on an entrée in the case of the octopus with potatoes and a romesco sauce or easily shared by two or more in the case of the fritto misto or salami platter. Touches of thought and finesse pop in dishes like the Caprese salad that is atop fried polenta and subs in chunky tomato jam underneath a ball of mozzarella. If you make it to the main courses (we tapped out after pasta) they do what appear to be straightforward versions of dishes like branzino, steak, duck confit with mushroom risotto. Three desserts are offered, in-house tiramisu squares served from the deep dish its assembled in; affogato; and an apple tart with vanilla gelato.
Perhaps the biggest surprise about the place is the space. As you enter it looks like a cozy restaurant with an ample bar and a few tables out front, but go in the back at a large greenhouse like structure is attached off the back. The nature of the construction materials means it can get loud, but it is bright and welcoming.
The wine list is priced for everyday with only a bottle of Brunello over $100 when we visited. It is not deep but covers a lot of ground.
During the day it operates as an outpost of the SoleLuna coffee shop with fresh pastries and coffee from Ecuador (the original SoleLuna sits across the street from Al Volo in Adams Morgan in a tiny spot with a constant line).
Other Guidance: Located at street level with some minor ramps. Though pasta is central, GF items are available and vegetarians can do ok. No need to dress up, but a jacket or dress would not be totally out of place.
Summary:
Cuisine: Italian
Neighborhood: Columbia Heights/Petworth
Address: 819 Upshur St NW, Washington, DC 20011
Website: https://sanmatteodc.com/
Reservations: Resy
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