Image: Fired up, ready to go.
Last Updated: May 2024
Overview:
The Japanese-themed food hall next to L’Ardente at the apron of Capitol Hill has filled out its offerings. A long post-industrial walkway painted bright red leads you from the entrance past the sushi spot, then the Japanese steakhouse, and ends with a windowless open area that serves Izakaya-style food around a large bar. From there it is up a short ramp and a sharp turn to the right where a large space for a daytime café (cafeteria?) opens up. It is a fun spot in all, not far from many attractions, including the Capitol Hill end of the Mall and Union Station.
Dear Sushi:
The format is omakase and the standard is two handrolls (more taquito than cone) and ten pieces of nigiri. The ten pieces are five different fish (on our visit it was sea bass, kampachi, king salmon, bluefin, skipjack tuna). Each fish is presented two ways, one old school with more traditional toppings and treatments, and one new school with accents like chili daikon and monkfish liver, jalapeno nori kosho, or hay smoked wagyu miso. The meal closes out with a small dessert. Add-ons are available for extra, either extra course or extra splurge courses. The space is open and bright with a large street-facing window. Despite the reverential treatment of the food, it is a bit less than formal in ambience. You can sit at tables or the bar. Reservations strongly recommended.
Beloved BBQ:
The yakiniku (Japanese steakhouse) experience centers around the smokeless grills at the table. The sides, the chunky udon mac & cheese, bright kimchi, spicy cucumbers are all good and help round out the meal. The dramatic choice for an introductory course is the large bowl of slaw mixed at the table. We did not do the most expensive of cuts, but even modestly-priced options were tasty, including the bavette and especially the spicy miso marinated slices. If you ask, there is a plate of raw vegetables that can supplement the meat or provide an alternative to vegetarians (though the grill is greased with fat to keep from sticking if they are sticklers).
Both the sushi and steakhouse enclaves are meant to be a bit more formal, and, as noted, there is a bright and shiny quality to the sushi spot and a dark, moody feel to the steakhouse. That said, the concrete floor and hard tables create a din, and add an element of casualness one step removed from what you may think of fine dining. There is a theater of the scene, but it is more the hustle and bustle of Metro Center humanity than the refined serenity of the Kennedy Center.
Hiya Izakaya:
A casual spot for a drink and a snack, or a full meal depending on how and how much you order, it is a very strong option with several impressive dishes. The simple sesame dressing over crisp cabbage salad is subtle in taste, but keeps drawing you back for one more bite. The crispy rice Hamachi is presented as four sushi-sized pieces that are small blocks of fried rice topped with finely chopped fish. There is also a tuna version. The “Mak” potatoes are squared sticks of whipped potato fried and served with a black olive aioli. The skewers cooked over a Robata grill are all served with distinct sauces that add depth. The eggplant pieces add miso and ginger. The squid comes with a green shiso salsa. Drinks were developed by local bartender/restaurateur Micah Wilder (Zeppelin, Chaplin’s), and joyfully incorporate Japanese elements/ingredients. Japanese whiskey, beers and sake are also available, as well as wines by the glass.
Love On The Run:
The large space with kiosks at the center, feels like a food court with a giant open kitchen along one side. We have yet to sample the goods, but so far they get high marks. Offerings include pastries, buns and noodles, sushi rolls, and salads.
What all four places highlight is the range of Chef Makoto Okuwa’s skills. Okuwa got his start in the States over two decades ago at Sushi Taro. He left there to work with Masaharu Morimoto, then open his own string of places, mostly in Latin America, but those are not nearly as ambitious as what he is trying to pull off here. He and his team are off to a strong start.
Other Guidance: The entire facility is on street levels, with a few interior ramps. The Post accessibility rating: “No barriers to entry in either restaurant; a ramp leads to ADA-compliant restrooms.” Dietary accommodations depend on the venue you pick, but GF and even vegetarians can work their way around the menus. Level of formality depends on the venue as well, but none of them really require dressing up to any degree, though you can.
Summary:
Cuisine: Japanese
Neighborhood: Convention Center/Mt. Vernon
Address: 200 Massachusetts Ave NW Suite 150, Washington, DC 20001
Website: https://www.lovemakoto.com/
Reservations:
Dear Sushi: Resy
Beloved BBQ: Resy
Other Critics/Voices:
Washington Post: Tom’s positive initial take. “Love, Makoto? The feeling is mutual.”
Washingtonian: Preview
WCP: Nevin Martell’s review.
Michelin: Dear Sushi is listed right out of the gate. As is Beloved BBQ.