Image: Catfish and spaghetti.
Last Updated: September 2024
Overview:
NOTE: Almeda closed at the end of August 2024.
Chef Danielle Harris opened Little Food Studio on Upshur in 2021, where she made great sandwiches on freshly-made focaccia and served up other treats. As the name implies, the space was small but it got some notice and there were hints that she wanted to go bigger. When the constantly-flipping, frustratingly so, space across the street opened with the departure of Little Vietnam, she jumped. Almeda is serving up dishes that draw on the African diaspora, but with a clear individual voice at their heart.
A deep-fried catfish paired with spaghetti and red sauce shares the crispy crumbs and pasta combination of chicken parm, but is also a reference to two staples of Black American cooking. The catfish is coated in cornmeal and soaked in buttermilk. Harris explained, “It sounds weird, but if you go to church in the Midwest— Chicago, Cleveland, Detroit—and there’s a fish fry, there’s spaghetti on the side.” Spicy Awaze Galbi Ribs comes with the appropriately named BBQ Yum Yum Sauce, it is served with lettuce like a Korean dish, but done with Ethiopian spices. The menu is short, with two small dishes (including a take on chickpeas doubles that subs in tostones for the base), the ribs as a medium-sized option, with two entrée dishes (a vegetarian Jollof Rice with charred cabbage and the pasta dish) and two larger platters for sharing. Desserts are recommended and come from pastry chef Chinnel Watson. The coconut crunch cake we tried was a winner, even as leftovers a day later. The brownie sent the Washington Post review into transcendence, “Watson’s slender, rum-fueled and (yes!) gluten-free brownie. Decadent but not cloying, the fudgy bar arrives with butterscotch and a savory yucca-ginger crumble on top and pink-purple tufts of whipped hibiscus tea on the side.”
Little Food Studio also made the move across the street. During the day it is run out of the same space. The bar seating of previous occupants is now a counter for service. Which means the interior seating is a mere 18 seats.
The small space and unique food could lead to a bit of preciousness, but the vibe is the opposite. Almeda is a neighborhood spot, walk-ins welcome, and the interactions informal. The cooking though is worth a trip from beyond the Petworth area.
Other Guidance: The restaurant is located at street level, but the Post accessibility guidance notes, “The narrow entry, snug dining room and tiny restroom are not easily navigated by wheelchair users.” The menu is mostly GF, with several vegetarian and a couple vegan options.
Summary:
Cuisine: Afro-Fusion
Neighborhood: Columbia Heights/Petworth
Address: 828 Upshur St NW, Washington, DC 20011
Website: https://www.almedarestaurant.com/
Reservations: Opentable on website
Other Critics/Voices:
Washington Post: Tom’s positive first impression.
Washingtonian: Preview, and made a monthly list of recommended places to check out (that was May, 2024 – it may have rolled off the list).
Washington City Paper: Nevin Martell’s overview.
The Times!!: The 25 Best Restaurants in Washington, D.C., Right Now, “They are dishes you’ll recall when it’s comfort you crave.”