Image: Ducking.
Last Updated: December 2024
Overview:
Mallard is a crowd-pleaser of a restaurant taking over the space previously occupied by Birth & Barley. It is also a personal restaurant from one of D.C.’s best chefs, Hamilton Johnson. Johnson hails from South Carolina, which provides the theme of the menu. The name Mallard is also a personal touch. It references Johnson’s father’s hobby of making duck decoys, and a couple examples of his work are found among the decorations.
The cozy space works well with the comforting food. But this is not mere comfort food. Johnson is a talented chef who has incorporated his creativity into the skillfully-prepared dishes. The duck dish is a subtlety-spiced “Pekin” duck served two ways: the classic sliced pieces of breast meat alongside a confit leg that is battered and fried. The leg’s crust crumbles and the meat easily falls from the bone with the touch of a fork. Like many dishes here, decadence is incorporated. Low-country favorites like fried oysters and pimento cheese immediately signal at the top of the menu where the inspiration comes from. Foie gras and tartare get shoutouts from critics. Slightly lighter dishes like Mahi with crawfish etouffee are done with equal aplomb – though even that dish had some foie in the mix. The crowd-pleasing nature of the menu is limited, however, if the crowd includes vegetarians. Even the brussels sprouts come on a bed of chicken liver parfait.
The fine dining touches from Johnson’s priors bookend dinner. The meal opens with a small (two-bite) loaf of bread. On our first visit it was pumpkin, second banana. And the check comes with a large version of a Werther’s caramel that is made in house and is, like the restaurant name, an homage to Johnson’s father, for whom the candy was a favorite. Desserts have fancy flourishes like a deconstructed banana pudding, or “coffee and cigarettes” of espresso ice cream over dense chocolate mouse with smoked olive oil and “tobacco caramel” accents, all served in an glass ashtray.
The southern theme is in the cocktails and deep whiskey list (lots of bourbon and rye). The beer list, that can tap into Churchkey’s vast selection, is impressive. The wine list is solid and leans toward natural wines. Consistent with the personal connection, Johnson turned to a much healthier lifestyle in the last couple years, and the bar does several good non-alcoholic options.
The room is the same layout, and not that different in feel from the wooded world of Birch & Barley that preceded it. The music (granddad rock/yacht rock playlist) plays faintly in the background. In this post-covid labor market, we are more forgiving of service slip ups, but it is still nice to have a place be strong in that department out of the gate.
Other Guidance: Small step up into the restaurant and two big doors. Slight ramp to bathrooms. GF can do ok, vegetarians less so.
Gift Cards (for Neighborhood Restaurant Group)
Summary:
Cuisine: New or Old American
Neighborhood: 14th Street
Address: 1337 14th St NW, Washington, DC 20005
Website: https://www.mallarddc.com/
Reservations: Opentable
Other Critics/Voices:
Washington Post: Mostly positive first take from Tom.
Washingtonian: Preview
Washington City Paper: Nevin Martell’s take.