Image: Subtle, sharp, seafood, sfincione.
Last Updated: December 2024
Overview:
Cucina Morini focuses on the food of southern Italy, especially Sicily. That means lots of fish, vegetables, and more than a hint of heat. The dishes are great and the space is cool. It immediately vaulted to the upper ranks of Italian spots in D.C. and holds its own with outstanding neighbors like Baan Siam and 2fifty.
The menu is arranged in columns that move from little to big as you move from left to right, but it is easy to construct a meal from the mixing and matching to fit the preferences and appetites of the table. The first column is lighter starters with precisely-constructed crudos and salads from a few key ingredients. The second batch is where you can make hay, with traditional appetizers like burrata, stracciatella and meatballs, veggies like cauliflower and broccoli rabe, and seafood appetizers like calamari and octopus. It is a list to build a snack around or a full meal. The pastas are made in-house and available in half-orders, again adding to the ability to build a meal from various parts. The eggplant and thick paccheri in tomato sauce is a classic, as is a version of rigatoni and ragu. Considering the focus of the restaurant, we tended to the classic squid ink pasta with shellfish ragu (and some kick) and the agnolotti stuffed with lobster. The mains are substantial, including a seafood stew (that also has some spice) that can feed four, and a scallops over a dense risotto. We have sample a fair bit of the menu and like everything, but especially loved the take on focaccia called sfincione that is a round of doughy, dippable bread.
Desserts tend to a traditional list – bombolini, olive oil cake, crème brûlée, but are executed well and very sharable. The wine list is not deep, but you can find something to match. There are two sides to the bar. One, as you enter, is the martini bar where they are serving $7 martinis (and only serving them there) as a place to hang out. The other side is more traditional, with a substantial number of spirit options, including American ones.
The spot opened in March, taking over the space of Nicoletta, counterintuitively replacing the bright interior with something darker even as it moved to sunnier cuisine. For a new restaurant in this environment, service has been solid on both our trips. Brunch was added over the summer, with insanely-alluring filled pastries.
One of the great things about D.C. is that it is big enough, wealthy enough, and (more and more) sophisticated enough to support a vibrant food scene. That means those in the industry can come here, carve out a space, and settle in. Sometimes they land with a big splash, but other times they slowly build up a reputation and we suddenly realize we are lucky to have them and that they stuck around. Chef Matt Adler made his mark at Osteria Morini in Navy Yard, then gained great prominence with Caruso’s Grocery where he made Italian-American comfort food fresh without losing the comfort part. With Cucina Morini, he returns to working with parent company of Osteria Morini, expands the repertoire and increases his reputation. In the previews, Adler said he was looking to do something “sharper” which the Post interpreted as spicier and Washingtonian as reflecting the plating. From our perspective it is in the cooking itself that is sharp. They are well-researched, carefully-crafted dishes, using great ingredients, that require attention and skill to pull off. Adler and his team have the chops to do it. We recommend you consider going…soon.
Other Guidance: The main entrance requires steps, but an alternative entrance is more easily accessible. Post guidance: No barriers to entry; ADA-compliant restrooms. The menu does well by those looking to avoid meat with its focus on fish, but even vegans can get enough. There are many GF options as well.
Gift Cards (for restaurant group)
Summary:
Cuisine: Italian
Neighborhood: Chinatown/City Center
Address: 901 4th St NW, Washington, DC 20001
Website: https://www.cucinamorini.com/
Reservations: 7 Rooms on website
Other Critics/Voices:
Washington Post: Tom was positive out of the gate.
Washingtonian: Preview.
Lori Gardner: Some love on the IG
Rick Eats DC: 2024 Dining Guide at #16 for the collective Adler entries.
Michelin: Already listed. They say, “This is straight-up comfort food but done with care and skill.” While we would say the food is comforting, Michelin (as it is wont) is not accurate because this food is more than comfort food. We agree it is done with skill and care.