Caruso’s Grocery

Image: Not going home hungry.

Last Updated: May 2026

Overview:

Caruso’s Grocery caught lightning in a bottle, quickly becoming a favorite of both critics and the broader public.  It evokes the American mid-century version of Italian restaurant – places with straw-covered wine bottles, chicken parm covered in red sauce, and Louis Prima playing.  The pitch is, “what if it was your local Italian joint from when you were a kid…but better!?”

Caruso’s menu, on the surface, is not that far from abbondanza factories like Carmine’s or Buca di Beppo (1993- 2024).  However, the dishes are prepared with care and craft that transcend cliché versions and takes it out of that category.  Yes, they do spaghetti and meatballs and penne alla vodka.  But they also do a very serious spicy ragu with bucatini and an alfredo with truffle butter.  The garlic bread is a nod to the old school version but with much better ingredients, and if bread topped with garlic and drenched in golden fats is not enough there is four-cheese sauce on the side for dipping.  The meat plates are serious commitments with servings meant to be shared or spread over several meals like the chicken parm of a huge flattened filet taking over a whole plate (power move is to get it with the vodka sauce).  One challenge you will face is that years of fan postings will leave you with a very long list of items to try, but even then, it might be the under-the-radar items like the eggplant, antipasti, or trout that make strong impressions.  Chef Matt Adler’s social media often walks through the dishes and gives hints to some off-menu items.

Caruso’s is part of the Neighborhood Restaurant Group.  The name is from NRG’s Jeff Babin’s personal history.  His Sicilian great-great grandfather had a store by the same name in Baton Rouge.  The beverage list leans on NRG’s strengths.  The short beer list reflects a company that also owns beer-focused places like Bluejacket and The Sovereign.  The cocktails are a creative mix, but designed to keep them all at a reasonable price. They include an antipasti martini that does not stop at olives but also includes a tomato and mozzarella chunk on the stick – just when you thought Caprese was all played out.  The Godfather Manhattan includes a splash of Amaretto.  The wine list is geared toward affordability, but still solid.  For desserts, we recommend veering toward traditional like cheesecake and tiramisu.

Both locations are a bit out of the way, but that has not stopped the steady stream of those who have responded to the cooking and the concept.  The setting may border on camp, though the aforementioned cocktail name being the one cultural reference that crosses over to cringe (why not North Beach, North End, Piazza d’Italia?).  Orange leather banquets and black and white photos hung in frames facilitate the fabrication of the recreated memory.  Our initial impression was distracted by the fabrication and underestimated the allure – or maybe it was difficult to concede childhood memories are already old enough to be fodder for such nostalgia.  But, the overall effect is brighter and fresher than the sepia-hued nostalgia.  It took what we loved about those old places and made it new. A place where a kid can sing “on top of spaghetti” and parents can savor a night out.

Gift Cards (Appears to be good for whole Roost complex)

Summary:

Cuisine: Italian

Locations:
Capitol Hill (Hill East) – 914 14th St SE, Washington, DC 20003
Reservations: Opentable

North Bethesda (Pike & Rose) – 11820 Trade St, North Bethesda, MD 20852
Reservations: Opentable

Website: https://www.carusosgrocery.com/

Other Critics/Voices:

Washington Post: Tom’s initial review (unrated during pandemic) was fawning. Also, liked the North Bethesda version.  Eve Zibart in 1997 took a tour of D.C.’s red-sauce joints, including the legendary A.V., and also noted the way the places embraced kitsch and camp.

Washingtonian: Preview. Top 100: #39 in 2026; #29 in 2025;  #18 in 2024; #17 in 2023; Top new restaurant list in 2022.

Eater: Missy Frederick puts in a plug for them in 2026.

Lori Gardner (Been There Eaten That): 2022