Image: Welcome.
Last Updated: April 2024
Overview:
A discreet street presence cloaks a jewel off Dupont Circle. Up the exterior staircase to the row-house building’s first floor, you enter a serene but bright room. A few tables stretch along each opposing wall, with a couple more near the window. The feel seems more casual than you might expect based on Obelisk’s reputation for one of the great restaurants of the District; more Italian country chapel than high temple of dining. But don’t let the apparent modesty deceive you.
The meal is prix-fixe and Italian; five courses, with options for each course. It starts with a bread basket, but resist the urge to gorge on that – so much more is coming. Antipasti arrives in waves. It is not a token amount to whet your appetite. It is a statement that this is a serious place and serious about food and the creation from scratch of five or so little dishes each night is a testament to the dedication to craft. The undisguised flavors rely on technique and sourcing to shine. A crisped fritter magically holding together a small globe of pork inside, a chicory salad with anchovy dressing, a small piece of burrata dressed in olive oil and pepper. They are not adding multiple layers and sauces, they are just executing as close to perfection as they can to create delightful bites.
You can pick from a few pasta options for the Primi. A slight playfulness stretches classics – plates like spaghetti alla chitarra with squash blossoms, shrimp, and bread crumbs as a sauce, or a recent version with fava and guanciale. The Secondi tend to be basic with a meat (likely a choice of fish, lighter meat, and a red) plus veggies and maybe a sauce. Again, don’t forget to pace yourself because cheese and dessert are still to follow and once they are under your nose you will want to keep nibbling no matter how full you may be.
The wine list is focused, but diverse and interesting enough to reward a close look. It is obviously Italian themed. The service is charming. Sometimes it is like granddaughters are serving up Nonna’s genius to a select few who have found this place.
Reservations are now easier, since they gave into the modern internet age to allow online booking. Other than that the standards and style have not changed much since Peter Pastan opened it in 1987. He sold the place to long-time lead chef Esther Lee in 2016.
Other Guidance: There are several steps up to the door. Pescatarians can do okay, but vegetarians will have to request accommodation. GF does well if you skip the pasta course. The website includes this disclaimer: “We are unable to accomodate every allergy and/or dietary restriction; email us prior to making a reservation so that we may best serve you. *PLEASE NOTE: We are unable to accommodate Gluten Free, Dairy Free and Vegan diets.*” Not everyone dresses up, but it would be awkward to go too casual.
Summary:
Cuisine: Italian
Neighborhood: Dupont Circle
Location: 2029 P St NW, Washington, DC 20036
Website: http://www.obeliskdc.com/
Reservations: Tock
Other Voices/Critics:
Washington Post: From 2023, “Obelisk feels like a poetry reading graced with sublime food.” He also warns to pace yourself and resist too much bread. 3 Stars in 2015 and 2017.
Washingtonian: 2023; #80 in 2020; #48 in 2019; #32 in 2018; 2017;
Lori Gardner (Been There Eaten That): From 2011
Michelin: Listed, though it is better than many starred places.