Image: Sardinian Dumplings.
Last Updated: April 2024
Overview:
Masseria established itself as an oasis in the grit of the old Union Market. In the intervening years, the grit has been claimed by growth. One side of the open-air courtyard is now dominated by a high-rise structure. Nonetheless, there is still an Alice-in-Wonderland feeling as you enter, breaking away from the bustle of backed-up Ubers clogging the road. The intent was to have the feel of a villa in the Italian countryside, and it does manage to transport.
The other thing that makes Masseria great is the food. We have been a fan of Nick Stefanelli’s cooking since he made Bibiana (now Modena) a treat. The food remains compelling here, deserving a center-stage spot in the theater around it.
Dinner is based on a tasting menu of about six courses (add ons available for upcharge). It starts with a set list of antipasti, but after that you can choose between options for appetizers, pasta, mains, dessert and/or cheese. There is also a chef’s table tasting menu of eight courses. This is a commitment of time, money and stomach space right up front. The flavors are deep and complex without being fussy. The sauces and accompanying elements usually support and amplify the central ingredient. The portions are not small, but you can get through a tasting menu without feeling overwhelmed – assuming you had a light lunch. Be prepared to share, because your companions will likely take a bite of something and declare it amazing. You will want to trade samples. The menu changes with the seasons. Our recent winter meal opened with a small cup of blueberry tea, a round loaf of focaccia with olives and light as a feather cheese bombolini. The pasta was hand-rolled chewy short lengths of a Pulgian style with a beef fat cap ragu that were preceded by baccala stuffed Sardinian dumplings in a light olive-oil sauce. In other words, Steffanelli is dipping into regional cuisines and other techniques so that even standards get special treatment. It remains a subtle indulgence.
The location is a story in itself. It unfolds across the various seating choices: the lounge with firepits, the open dining area paired with the lounge (and space heaters), the bar, the more formal dining area paired with the open kitchen. It is like an interior designer from Milan was given a chance to re-do a farmhouse – without the farmhouse. That said, for all the space it still is a curiosity the hostess stand is placed at a bottleneck of customers and server traffic, but that is a little Italian too.
The service is friendly and proper, but not stuffy. The wine list is deep and not cheap. Although there are some sub-$100 gems, it is dominated by the big regions in Italy, France and California. The cocktail program is well-thought out and done well. There is a buzz to the place. D.C. celebrities might be in the room if you can spot them. Although, sadly, one large group can tilt the mood of the room from reserved to raucous given its open feel and might damper a romantic dinner.
One note of caution, as Washingtonian picked up on, the operations are not as smooth as they once were. They say, “Be prepared to linger: We encountered lengthy hiatuses between courses, and we tired of the upselling of wine pairings and luxury items.” We did not encounter these exact issues, but similar low-level annoyances that take some of the shine off. If this is your one big, fancy dinner for the year (or longer), it may be a bit of a gamble.
Despite its quirks (or maybe because of them) Masseria has established itself as a small paradise in a paved parking lot in Northeast. It remains a favorite.
Other Guidance: The relaxed atmosphere means there is no standard level dress. It varies from suits to t-shirts, but you will want to dress up for the special occasion. Or, as the website suggests, “Dress to satisfy others, but eat to satisfy yourself.” The restaurant is located on a single floor at street level. The set menu means you should flag dietary restrictions ahead of time, some can be accommodated or courses substituted.
Summary:
Cuisine: Italian
Neighborhood: Union Market
Address: 1340 4th St NE, Washington DC
Website: https://www.masseria-dc.com/
Reservations: Tock
Other Critics/Voices:
Washington Post: 3 Stars in initial review, but strangely the text is missing from the online page. First Bite in 2015 with an amazing photo of a clear skyline (“If you care about food with a side of style, Masseria is a must.”);
Washingtonian: Top 100 in 2023; #52 in 2020; #10 in 2018; #21 in 2019; 2017. Limpert’s initial review in 2016 was 3 stars.
Lori Gardner (Been There Eaten That): From 2016
Michelin: One Star