Image: Boxed
Last Updated: December 2024
Overview:
Kaz Sushi Bistro can feel like it is stepping out of time, still retaining some of its original feel from twenty-five years ago. It has lasted because it is good. While we must let go of some old standbys in D.C., Kaz remains. Perhaps not hidden, but possibly fallen off the radar, a gem nonetheless.
Several signature dishes, mostly small plates, have been standards for years. Five years ago, Tom raved about the “Napoleon” with this description, “Chopped raw sea bass (originally sea trout) tossed with a soy-ginger dressing and roasted peanuts, then layered between crackling rounds of fried wonton skins, engages all the senses.” Grilled avocado with lobster and mayo, a cabbage pancake with chunks of meat (salmon or pork), sauce and bonito flakes is packed densely with umami. The sushi, with its select dots of sauce or seasoning is excellent with expertly-packed rice and fresh selections. For many years it was considered among the city’s best and still deserves to be in that category. Especially at a price point below the other challengers. For a great lunch, keep the bento boxes in mind.
Desserts are fun twists on the familiar, though the chocolate cake is just the familiar. Sake is at the heart of the drink list. Okochi spent time to learn about the beverage, so take advantage of his knowledge and dig in to the list. The room is a bit of a throwback. Not just in the décor, but in the serene environment (carpet!!) that you forget used to be the default for fine dining.
Kaz Okochi came from Osaka and made his mark at Sushi-Ko. As Okochi explained in this great profile from Tim Carman (in the form of a state of sushi piece), he wanted to “improve” on the basic sushi he found in D.C. at the time. He experimented with adding toppings like mango puree to classic nigiri. Even as he pushed the boundaries, he has been respectful of the core tradition. As an expert quoted in the Carman piece noted really high-end sushi spots will always survive, but the care and talent necessary to sustain a mid-level spot is difficult. And that is the space Kaz Sushi Bistro occupies as many its peers fell by the wayside. Even as the namesake has turned over the day-to-day reins it is a remains a gem.
Other Guidance: A few uneven steps up to entrance. GF can do well. Vegetarians have multiple non-fish choices. Pescatarians can go wild. It is a nice setting, and you can dress up a little if you want, but not required by any stretch of the imagination.
Summary:
Cuisine: Japanese
Neighborhood: Downtown
Address: 1915 I St NW, Washington DC
Website: http://www.kazsushi.com/
Reservations: Opentable
Other Critics/Voices:
Washington Post: Tom gave it 2.5 stars in 2019. Tim made a plug for lunch.
Washingtonian: #93 in 2015 Top 100. Also several before that, 2014; 2013; 2009;
Lori Gardner (Been There Eaten That): From 2019.