Image: Potatoes Pau Gasol
Last Updated: November 2023
Overview:
The Bazaar is a grand space, a giant machine, and a smorgasbord of a menu. It occupies a prominent spot in the grand atrium of the Ben Franklin Old Post Office building that has been converted into a hotel now run as a Waldorf-Astoria property. There it showcases the food of D.C.’s José Andrés.
In fact, the menu reads like a “This Is Your Life” episode for Andrés. Some traditional tapas, some American classics, some modernist presentations, by one count there are 45 options. Adding to the mystique is that the size of the plates can vary between barely a bite and something approaching a full plate. The options are so varied and plentiful they are served from four different kitchens. Which is to say, we have only sampled a fraction so far. You cannot go wrong with the traditional tapas, but to stretch your range, we would also recommend the Neptune’s Pillows of creamy tuna stuffed into airy pastries, and the potatoes Pau Gasol with Ossetra caviar, cured egg yolk atop fried sticks of potatoes. Andrés has a soft spot for traditional Americana food, and one of the most hearty dishes is a stewed beans and sausage homage to Sen. Moynihan (who played a key role in revitalizing Pennsylvania Ave) by way of a Spanish classic. Another classic re-interpreted is the Waldorf salad, which Ann Limpert in the Washingtonian describes as “bite-size endive leaves, a dragonfruit-and-cobia ceviche studded with pecans, a quintet of ultra-creamy conch fritters with bonito flakes, skewers of boneless Buffalo wings, and a cute glass “tin” of vinegary marinated mussels.”
Some dishes sing, others lean to satisfying, some can surprise while other soothe like the classic comfort of Spanish jamon. And be careful with the ones that might spill out of liquid-encased center. Again, quoting Limpert, “Together, they make about as much sense as Dalí’s dripping clocks next to a baroque portrait of Spanish nobility. But that’s Andrés’s world. Mind-expanding, giddily mischievous, and—sometimes—bizarre in the best way.” We also had the semi-homonym “bizarre” popping into our mind through out the experience.
The huge space, multiple kitchens and bars can create service problems, so be prepared to settle in. Jaleo taught us all those years ago that dishes arrive when ready, though here they can be sequenced to arrive in a particular order, making planning and wine pairing a little easier.
The drama is sustained through the beverage program with many cocktails ready for their social media close-up. The wine list features a large number of by-the-glass options that works with such a variable menu. The bottle list is a pretty solid book that leans toward Spain, but many other options.
For those that do not want to commit to the process or price of minibar, or who want to have a more communal experience, The Bazaar offers a fancy but not extremely expensive version of Andrés, where you are able to sample and accommodate just about any palate. For those that have not had the benefit of the last three decades of his food, it may be a revelation, as it was with the first incarnation in Los Angeles in 2008 under chef de cuisine Michael Voltaggio (“In four meals here, I’ve never gotten a bad dish, or really even a boring one”). For D.C. folks, it may prompt some nostalgia who have sampled and returned many times to his food. On a practical level, The Bazaar is a good spot to note for a possible special night out, whether group or date night.
Other Guidance: The Post Accessibility rating, “Wheelchair users can enter the hotel via a ramp and reach the second-floor dining room via an elevator; ADA-compliant restrooms.” GF can do well, pescatarians very well, but vegetarians might have to do a little hunt-and-peck. Though the space is fancy and many dress up, it is not really necessary.
Gift Cards (for all Andrés spots).
Summary:
Cuisine: Spanish
Neighborhood: Downtown
Address: 1100 Pennsylvania Avenue NW, Washington, DC 20004
Website: https://www.thebazaar.com/location/washington-dc/
Reservations: Seven Rooms (on website)
Other Critics/Voices:
Washington Post: Tom enjoyed his early meals there.
Washingtonian: Limpert’s balanced take.