Saya Salteña

Image: To remind you of the name.

Last Updated: March 2024

Overview:

Saya Salteña opened downtown near the World Bank in a small spot with warm pockets to fill you up.  Salteñas are Bolivia’s close relative of the empanada.  They are more “soupy” than otherwise expected, to the point you should eat from the top down.  Biting in the middle invites disaster.  You can use a spoon or slurp depending on your disposition (and maybe clothing choice that day).  And as owner Maria Iturralde says, “Think of the pastry as an edible cup.”  The savory interior (beef, chicken or quinoa) includes other ingredients like olives, eggs, and potatoes in the mix, while the slightly sweet crust offsets the meat, herbs, and spices inside.

The menu has other options as well.  Continuing with the hearty theme, sides include papa rellena, which is baked potato wrapped around cheese or meat then breaded and fried. Humintas are corn meal with cheese stuffing wrapped in a husk like a tamale which also carry the sweetness of corn. Sandwiches come on a brioche bun, with chicken, pork, and quinoa options. There are several dessert options, including fruit salteñas. 

It helps to remember that Bolivia is an Andean country with a large percentage of its population living well above sea level.  The hearty food makes sense.  Like other cuisines from higher altitudes, it is also deeply satisfying.

They open at 8:30 during the week to serve coffee sourced directly from Bolivia (though this is not a barista service, you may get Coffee Mate instead of milk – but the coffee is robust and tasty).  At lunch, confirming Bolivia’s sweet tooth, is a drink called mocochinchi, made with dehydrated peaches that may give you a sugar rush.

It is a small shop, with a couple tables inside and a couple more uncovered tables outside. Saya was the result of a shift from engineering for Iturralde, who graduated from nearby GWU.  She started a catering business during the pandemic, opening the first iteration of Saya Salteña at Mess Hall before settling into the current location in summer 2023.  As for customers, beside the college kids who should have a natural affection for the food, and the World Bank folks who may have come across them at one point, there is also a little-known fact flagged in the Washingtonian that the D.C. region is home to the country’s largest concentration of Bolivians.  In fact, you might find yourself seated near one who encourages you to try their favorite dish.

Other Guidance:  It is located at street level on 19th Street, though the street is on an incline on that block. GF diners have a couple choices as to vegetarians – it is clear they went out of their way to do vegetarian versions of both the salteñas and the sandwiches.

Summary:

Cuisine: South American (Bolivian)
Neighborhood: West End/Foggy Bottom
Address: 1919 Pennsylvania Avenue NW Suite GR 07, Washington, DC 20006 (Entrance on 19th)
Website: https://www.sayasaltena.com/
Reservations: Walk-in

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