Image: Take out from above.
Last Updated: November 2024
Overview:
KooKoo checks a few boxes. It is a sunny spot to hang out in a languid manner in Columbia Heights. It is one of the few places in D.C. proper doing Persian cuisine, and it is a good take-out option that is on the healthy side.
Yahya Sardari, a longtime veteran of the hospitality industry, converted his Coffey Café to focus on the cooking of his family in 2023. Stewed dishes that layer flavors into the depth of long-cooked meats are the heart of the menu. Khoresh fesenjoon was the star among our samplings. It is chicken served in a pot with a sauce mixing savory with walnuts and pomegranate molasses. There are also several beef dishes and a lamb gigot that get similar treatment. As he told Eater, “You don’t dictate how many hours you cook it. The dish tells you when it’s ready.” When he converted the space, he also added a grill that contributes dishes like skewered chicken, and a very good file of salmon along with a classic charred eggplant dip. They serve several variations of rice including saffron, barberry and cranberry, and fava with dill. Don’t miss the desserts, including the saffron and rosewater ice cream.
The cocktail list is substantial and tweaked to fit the cuisine. The beer and wine list is more modest. Sardari is not quite a one-man show, but he is omnipresent bouncing from the back to front of house, cooking, serving dishes, checking in. The tall windows and sunny disposition across the board make the place inviting and comfortable.
Other Guidance: The restaurant is located at street level. Meat and fish are the focus of the entrees, but vegetarians can find a few things to work with.
Summary:
Cuisine: Persian
Neighborhood: Columbia Heights/Petworth
Address: 3310 14th St NW, Washington, DC 20010
Website: https://www.kookoodc.com/
Reservations: Opentable on website.
Other Critics/Voices:
Washington Post: No coverage yet
Washingtonian: No coverage yet
Eater DC: Evan Caplan’s kind preview.
District Fray: Overview.