Image: It’s a sign.
Last Updated: December 2023
Overview:
Ellē is a special restaurant. It was part of a wave of New American spots that pushed the menu past farm-to-table seasonality to incorporate less-common flavors and techniques. It took over an old bakery, and like another restaurant of the wave, Tail Up Goat, it found a spot slightly out of the way and made it a destination. The bakery was an apt predecessor. Co-founded by Nick Pimental of the beloved Room 11 and Lizzy Evelyn of Paisley Fig bakery, baking has always been a core part of Ellē’s identity and that continues, especially at breakfast. As for the savory side, Chef Harrison Dickow, who took over in early 2022, has put his mark on the menu. Whatever the special ingredients were that combined to make Ellē special when it started, the magic has not worn off.
That menu can be done as prix fixe or à la carte. It is divided up into four sections with three or so choices for each section. The sections are roughly appetizers, pastas, mains, and desserts. Under the prix fixe you pick one from each section for a four-course dinner. The food reflects Dickow’s work under previous Chef Brad DeBoy who put Ellē on the map with his creativity and emphasis on fermentation. He also spent time at the aforementioned Tail Up Goat, Reveler’s Hour and the legendary San Francisco pasta spot Flour+Water. One of the standout dishes is the breadcrumb sourdough pasta with ricotta salata that leans into the subtle flavor of the pasta over any heavy sauce. The kitchen also has a soft spot for caramelizing and sugary sauces. There are less picked mustard seeds these days and more things like honey BBQ sauce (with the whipped feta and broccoli), caramelized whey (with the butter served with the opening snack tray) and Coca-Cola based sauce over the chicharrónes. Ellē has always had great vegetable dishes, and that continues. In addition to the broccoli, the menu currently includes a miso-charred squash as a main. For the fish, they blackened a thick piece of halibut and served it in a light broth with large pieces of tomato and eggplant.
In line with respecting non-meat eaters, they made Tim Carman’s list for best burger for their soy and quinoa tempeh version, described as “a slab of house-fermented tempeh, which the kitchen smokes over hickory chips to add an element of ‘charred burger’ flavor.”
Desserts, as you would expect from a spot with a baking focus, is also strong and sustains the creative, funky approach. Bay leaf flan will answer any person who says it adds no flavor, and a Paw Paw sorbet was the ultimate in seasonal dishes.
The drink list is heavy on spirits, with cocktails a point of emphasis, including an expanded list of non-alcoholic options. There is a long bar in the back of the restaurant where you might be able to snag a seat on a night when tables are booked. The wine list has always had great by-the-glass selections to match the offbeat food, and that remains true, though the bottle list is not that long.
There is a charming quality to Ellē that has taken a very serious kitchen and made it translate to a relaxed setting with a neighborhood connection. Locals line up for breakfast service (they also do lunch). The line can stretch back pretty far on weekends for the in-house pastries, a classic breakfast sandwich, and fresh coffee. The name is a derivation of Evelyn’s grandmother’s and the old Heller bakery the space occupies. The décor has a bit of farmhouse to it as it pushes back past the old school bakery counter. It is the kind of place where staff seem to naturally maintain a sunny nature. And there are the cat references in the merchandise that extends to online. We are happy to see Ellē still going strong.
Summary:
Cuisine: New or Old American
Neighborhood: Columbia Heights/Petworth (Mt. Pleasant)
Address: 1226 36th St NW, Washington DC20007
Website: https://www.eatatelle.com/
Reservation: Resy
Other Critics/Voices:
Washington Post: In the 2022 Fall Dining Guide. In before times, Tom gave it 3 Stars. Also #1 in his Spring 2018 Dining Guide.
Washingtonian: #15 in 2023. #7 in 2019. Some insights from Dickow in an article about the ill-fated Tigerella.
Rick: #8 on his Spring 2019 Top 25 List. #18 in 2018.
Eater DC: 2018 Restaurant of the Year
Michelin: (Bib Gourmand) “This indie hot spot with a retro-chic décor and cool staff has so many things going for it.”
Before Times Review:
Last Visited: February 2020
Ellē is one of the high points in the D.C. dining renaissance. An inconspicuous spot in a slightly out-of-the-way stretch, it was compelling enough from the start to get the notice one and all. One of the amazing things about the spate of interesting and great restaurants that have opened over the last few years is that they have sustained their individual excellence even as the competition has heightened. Ellē is no exception to that positive trend.
The cooking is New American via the world, with spices, techniques and flavors from all corners. On one trip the scallop crudo with turnips, black garlic, and shoyu highlighted the whim and skill that combine here. One early standout that became a staple is Kimchi Toast with Gochujang, Daikon Radish, Pickled Red Onions, Fermented Mustard, and Nori Yogurt. Mustard seeds and fermented things are a thing here. As is bread from the acclaimed Paisley Fig bakery of co-owner Lizzy Evelyn (they do lunch and a beloved breakfast service). The beef tartare included the mustard seeds and was done on a thick piece of Texas Toast that was substantial enough to eat with a fork like an open-faced sandwich. It also came with bone marrow dusted in bread crumbs to slab on top. The menu changes constantly, but pasta dishes have shined since opening, and leave room for the equally creative desserts.
The space was previously the Heller Bakery, which meant they could be playful keeping elements of the prior food industry occupant – including the middle four letters in the name. It retains some of the old tile. The storefront area stretches and opens after a counter to the bar and the dining room. There is a semi-enclosed dining space in the back with several tables. When so many restaurants are set in sterile glass and steel corners of new developments, this place feels carved out of history with all its quirks and echoes.
The bar serves the full menu. You can sit among the lucky locals who are known by name to the staff and the online daters getting to know each other for the first time. You might get boxed out if you are hoping to grab a seat on a busy night. The drinks are equally creative and well-done by some talented bartenders. The other co-owner is Nick Pimentel who also owns the beloved Room 11. The wine list is not long and is slightly quirky. The by-the-glass options seem chosen to work with the food. There may not be an obvious crowd-pleaser, but ask an you will likely be given something that pleases you. The staff are busy and serious about their work, but maintain the friendly neighborhood feel.
Ellē doesn’t need another plug to drive traffic there, but we offer it freely. Plan ahead and make the trip. It is a special place.
Other Guidance: It is still a hot ticket, so if you are going on a busy night be sure to book in advance or take your chances at the bar. They have both a corkage and cakeage fee! (both are $25). According to the website the Dress Code is: “Clothing.” It is a strict requirement and for the sake of the rest of us, please respect it. GF and vegetarians can do okay. The bakery focus means bread is common in dishes. But you can eat around and staff will try to help. Entrance is at street level with a slight ramp. In addition to the restrooms downstairs, there are two that are ADA accessible from the main dining room.
Rating: Worth Paying the Cab
Cuisine: New or Old American
Neighborhood: Columbia Heights/Petworth (Mt. Pleasant)
Address: 1226 36th St NW, Washington DC20007
Website: https://www.eatatelle.com/
Reservation: Resy
Other Critics/Voices:
Washington Post: Tom gave it 3 Stars. Also #1 in his Spring 2018 Dining Guide.
Washingtonian: #5 in 2020; #7 in 2019.
Rick: #8 on his Spring 2019 Top 25 List. #18 in 2018.
Eater DC: 2018 Restaurant of the Year
Michelin: (Plate) “This indie hot spot with a retro-chic décor and cool staff has so many things going for it.”
