Image: Turkey hiding in mole.
Last Updated: February 2024
Overview:
The small spot on P Street has been home to many a favorite for locals. With the closing of Pesce (which reopened a few blocks away!) there was a risk that would not continue. Fear not, Amparo Fondita has cooking that could fill a larger space and pull diners from farther away, but it has been channeled into a cozy storefront fit for the neighborhood.
The food is from Chef Christian Irabién, who was behind the very good Muchas Gracias in Chevy Chase, who said one of the goals is to do recognizable Mexican. “I feel like oftentimes I go to a Mexican restaurant, and it’s so chef-driven to the point where I identify the ingredients, but I don’t really quite get the dish. More often than not, when I wake up, all I want is scrambled eggs, beans, and tortillas.” That intention comes through in the relatively focused dishes, but the restriction does not lack for culinary sophistication. This may be the food of the family table, but it feels like the special occasion version.
The tortillas made in-house are the backbone of the menu. They provide the crispy base for the Tostada de Trucha, a citrus-cured arctic char with salsa macha of deeply dark peppers on the side and guac on top making a very creamy layer with spiced pepitas. They are wrapped around shredded turkey meat and covered in mole negro for the Enmoladas de Guajolote. And, of course, there are tacos. Each one carefully constructed. The fish tacos are large chunks from the plancha with a creamy sauce and just a bit of cabbage for texture so that it does not melt away in your mouth too quickly. The sopesitos are meant to be shared and is one of the show-stoppers visually. The thick disks of crisped but chewy maize come with a plate of toppings. Vegetarians can find several options, including a substantial chile relleno, and a dramatic large sweet potato with charred skin.
The dessert list is limited but excellent with a choice of tres leches that more subtle than most versions, or a dense coffee flan that is more decadent than you might anticipate. Not limited is the list of agave spirits, tequila, mezcal and the lesser-known raicilla. The bar fills up on many nights, reaffirming its bonding with the locals.
Amparo has been in the works for a while. Irabién’s quest to find a good location took on an Arthurian aspect, stretching over seven years and many pop-up versions. It is a great addition to the neighborhood. It avoided being swamped by the generic in Union Market to be among the great individual spots on P Street like Obelisk and Chi-ko. And Amparo has more moves. It is also working on being a day café of sorts. Breakfast service was previewed, but since opening has been postponed.
Other Guidance: The Post accessibility rating: Three steps lead from the entrance to the dining room and there are also stairs to the restrooms, but removable ramps are available for diners who call ahead. The menu notes that many items can be made vegetarian or vegan. Most of the starches are not from bread – so GF can do well.
Summary:
Cuisine: Mexican/Central American
Neighborhood: Dupont
Address: 2002 P St NW, Washington, DC 20036
Website: https://amparofondita.com/
Reservations: On Website
Other Critics/Voices:
Washington Post: Tom is high in praise out of the gate.
Washingtonian: Preview