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Last Updated: July 2025
Overview:
Like an amusement park ride, a trip to Ama involves a bit of a interlude across a barren land and under a bridge to build suspense, but then a glowing world opens up. A long bar that faces both internally and to the sidewalk to accommodate sipping espressos or negronis depending on the time of day. Inside the light plays against darker old world touches, as one can imagine red-shirt veterans sharing tales. It is the product of the husband/wife team of Micah Wilder and Johanna Hellrigl.
The cooking comes from Hellrigl, who brought Doi Moi back to life, then infused creativity into the South American menu at Mercy Me. At Ama, she turns to her roots with evident research. The dishes come from northern Italy, but with a lightness that sometimes is not translated when done outside the country. For example, a beef carpaccio that is sliver thin and dressed with just the right amount of lemon juice under arugula and Parmesan, or a rabbit stew that could be served in summer.
The pastas are ridiculously good. Our recent visit included a large flat, ramp-infused noodle with a simple sparse cheese sauce that was like spring incarnate when it hit the senses. A lasganetta of mushrooms and deep stock is less dramatic than L’Ardente’s but with the same richness without leaning into the cheese. We could go on, but hopefully you get the idea. This is a practiced hand doing excellent takes that makes a familiar cuisine feel fresh.
A couple other notes: At the top of the choices is bread in various forms, focaccia in various ways and crostini. Get at least one to try. There is a whole section is dedicated to vegetables. Vegetarians can do well here. Pace yourself or prepare to leave with leftovers.
The wine list is deep and Italian. Wilder, who operates Chaplin’s and Zeppelin in Shaw with his brother makes his mark on the cocktail menu that starts with a slew of Negroni variations.
During the day it operates as a caffé, starting with espresso and cornettos for breakfast and soups, salads, sandwiches for lunch.
The website reads like an artifact of an earlier time when thoughtfulness was valued and people were less coarse. For example, a clear statement about accessibility, “We’re committed to being accessible to all, offering a welcoming environment for guests with disabilities, including wheelchair accessibility throughout.” Also, the explanation for a small surcharge but not a tip, “100% of the Health & Wellness Charge is moved into an allocated fund that is used to pay our medical, dental, vision and mental wellness benefits,” and a plea for patience as restaurants figure out labor costs, “We would like to add that we realize the current landscape is beyond confusing for our guests. We appreciate you bearing with us, and all of our colleagues around town (regardless of what model they run), as we all figure out how we are going to move forward as an industry.” It also details choices about environmental impacts and food sourcing. All of that on top of the clear intention to put out food that is both delicious and healthy.
Summary:
Cuisine: Italian
Neighborhood: SE/Navy Yard
Address: 885 New Jersey Ave SE, Washington, DC 20003
Website: https://www.amarestaurant.bar/
Reservations: Resy
Other Critics/Voices:
Washington Post: Strangely, it does not appear that it has covered it yet. But in 1985 a reporter named Phyllis Chasanow-Richman spent a day with Hellrigl’s father. “He arrived at the Georgetown Safeway to choose ingredients for lunch with several lists, for his menu would depend on what looked good at the moment.”
Washingtonian: Preview.