Picture: “Hello Lover.” Focaccia at Leonti, New York. From The New Yorker (by Eric Helgas). A post in which we pause a moment to marvel at a restaurant critic overcome by affection for the subject of a review. Despite the fact it has little practical value for me as an eater, I routinely read Hannah […]
Picture: 19th Century U.S. Navy Commodore Broad Pennant. A rank flag without stars. In his most recent review – a glowing take on Rooster and Owl – Washington Post chief restaurant critic Tom Sietsema reminded us that he tends to low-ball new restaurants when awarding stars. Last month, I wrote a post, “Time to Suspend […]
